​NOTE:  My newsletter of individual-subject emails highlighting new postings on my website is on hiatus.  However, I'm continuing to update postings on the website, especially on the Events, Jobs, and News pages. So please do check in perhaps weekly for the newest items on those pages.  Refer to the Monthly Tips for what tasks and opportunities to explore in the garden.  See Major-Topic Blog Articles links on the homepage.  And see the Archives on this Blog page to the right for all past garden musings.

      Ack!  What a flip in weather - from mild-enough to resume seeding and transplanting in my previous blog on 8/28/24, to this 4-day burst of 105+ heat that's done its worst on my first-planted tomatoes which were barely hanging on from with only a few fruits from the July heat spell.  And the beans, fully leafed-out and 2 feet tall before the heat, were truly fried.
     This morning, the forecast for 2 more days of 105+ heat before a reprieve of "only" 93 degrees and then a true blessing of 85 and 80 degrees got me into the garden to check on the newest-planted tomatoes.  Thankfully, they're still green and perky.  I gave them another watering and look forward to their recouperating by this time next week.
     Ah, well.  As much energy and water as we expend in our lovely gardens, sometimes the magic works, and sometimes it doesn't.  Definitely time to move on to the cool-season garden.

Some thoughts on our perhaps-continuing heat, and what to do - and not do - from my Stressing Out In This Heat? - 7/24/23 blog:
 
If the heat spell continues

• Keep the soil moist but not wet throughout the entire root zone so that both moisture and air will always be sufficiently available when the plant roots need them.
• Keep shading devices installed.
• Don’t plant or transplant.  These activities are stressful enough for plants, without the additional heat stress issues.
• Don’t apply any chemicals for plant disease and insect issues, even soap or neem oil, when air temperatures are above 80 degrees.
• Do get rid of weeds, many of which do well during temperature extremes  and certainly do compete with garden plants for water and nutrients.

 
After the heat spell retreats

• Don’t prune or fertilize, as these activities stress the plant even more.
• Instead, allow plants to rebalance themselves in relief from the intense heat for several weeks.
• After a month or so, when you see that new growth has emerged and perhaps blossoming has resumed (once the air temperature is again consistently below about 85 degrees), then you can gently trim dead foliage without fear that you’ll stress the plant even more.
• Resume planting and transplanting.

       Now that the daytime temperatures are forecast to be in “only” the upper 80s, we gardeners can begin to resume our seeding and transplanting of new plants and watering of established plants – and even some light fertilizing for those established plants that are continuing to pump out their flowers and fruits for our visual and edible delight.  During the previous weeks of more severe heat, we didn’t want to stress plants with too much food and water.  The upcoming couple of months through Thanksgiving are transition times, enjoying revitalized summer bounty and also fostering new growth and flowers and fruits to carry us through the cool weather and into the spring.   
 
Go Both Ways
     Because we don’t know which kind of weather we’ll have during the next three months – whether it’ll heat up again into the highish 90s or stay down in the low 80s or even get cooler still – we can take advantage of whatever results by sowing both the last seeds of summer crops like beans and squash that will mature in about 60 days and also sowing seeds of cool season crops like lettuce and chard and broccoli and peas. That way, one or the other group – or both -- will be happy and you’ll get something to eat.
     Some seeds may not germinate quickly, either because the soil or air is too warm, the seed is too old, or the seeds were sown too deeply or too shallowly or have been allowed to dry out.  The easy, several-step solution is to water the soil at least to the depth of 2 inches, scratch the soil to a depth of half an inch, sow seed thickly, sprinkle water lightly to settle the seed into the shallow scratchings, sprinkle very lightly with sand or fine compost to help retain moisture next to the seeds, and then sprinkle with water to barely set the seed in moist soil.
     You may even want to transplant a couple of tomato plants, varieties like “Siberia” and “Glacier” that are touted to grow and fruit during cold weather.  However, I tried this years ago and the fruits weren’t any better than what I could purchase at the grocery store, so I determined to not waste my garden space doing this again.  Instead, I devote my labor and space to edibles that thrive in our cool weather.
     See my archived blog on the subject --
Now’s the Perfect Time for Seeding and Transplanting - 10/9/18
 
Propagating Succulents and Others
     This comfortably mild weather is excellent for taking trimmings of lots of plants that you want to propagate, like succulents and salvias and begonias, fuchsias, geraniums, hydrangeas, ivies, and marguerite daisies. 
     See my step-by-step instructions and techniques that are applicable to most plants -- Propagating Begonias From Cuttings - 10/29/16
 
Planting Bearded Irises, Daylilies, and “Real” Lilies
     If bearded irises haven’t bloomed well and look crowded, dig up clumps and separate rhizomes. Trim foliage to about eight inches from the rhizome.  Discard the old, leafless center sections (even if they’re still firm, since they probably won’t develop new shoots), and trim roots to two inches in length.  Replant in well-drained soil so the tops of their rhizomes are open to the air, with only their roots buried and growing straight down, in full sun.  Don’t fertilize, but water in well.
       Daylilies like to be one inch below the soil surface in either full sun or partial shade.
     Lilies need their bases shaded but foliage in the sun, so keep their soil always slightly moist as the bulbs don’t ever go fully dormant even after losing all their top foliage.
 
Arrange Your Own Dried Flowers
     Dry flowers for arrangements that you've grown yourself. The easiest to dry are baby's breath, bachelor's button, bells of Ireland, lavender, scabiosa, statice, strawflower, and yarrow. All but the bells of Ireland are best air-dried.  Tie a few stems into a loose bunch, and hang it up, flower heads down, in a cool, dark, dry place for several weeks. The exception is bells of Ireland--stand these upright in a container with a half-inch of water; flowers will dry as the water evaporates.

​For more garden tasks, see September

For more Fall season techniques and discussion, see these archived blogs:

• Fall Bulb Planting for Spring Color - 8/21/21
• Holiday Decor From Your Garden - 11/19/19
• Cool-Season Plant Problems and Solutions - 3/14/21
• Collecting “Dry” Non-Hybrid Seeds for Sowing and Sharing - 8/25/19
• Repotting Shady Ferns and Begonias, and Sunny Succulents - 8/1/19
• Now’s the Perfect Time for Seeding and Transplanting - 10/9/18
• Collecting Seeds From Your Garden - 9/11/17
• Starting Lettuce and Other Seeds - 9/12/19

• Propagating Begonias From Cuttings - 10/29/16

     Some gardeners relish the heat, and anything over 90 degrees is heaven for them.  For me, however, anything over ninety degrees means shutting down the house, turning on the air conditioning, and doing something other than gardening outdoors until the sun goes down on my garden after about 6pm. 
 
Transplanting Even More Tomatoes
     Even so, for the first time ever, I planted more tomato plants during July’s hot weather.  I’d planted some in June, and I planted five more yesterday.  Both the ones in June and these now replaced plants that I’d neglected to water deeply enough frequently enough to enable them to establish excellent root systemsso they could blossom and set fruit.  So they died. 
     I also watered the existing plants well, then gave them each a handful of fertilizer, and watered that in well, both in the depressions surrounding each plant and in the 5-gallon buckets buried between them that releases water one foot down directly into the root system.
     I know I’ve committed myself to deeply watering every plant at least twice a week from now on, especially when it gets really hot.  But, I know that I can also give myself a personal shower during the process, satisfying us both.
 
Planning For Cool Weather
     A great anti-heat mind-block activity is to concentrate on cool weather, which veggies and fruits and posies I’ll want to grow over the coming fall and winter and into the spring. 
     This starts with recalling what didn’t do so well this year or last year, especially now that climate change is providing considerably fewer chill hours so plants are having a harder time going dormant so they can rest up sufficiently to prepare for next year’s crops.
 
Sorting My Seed Packets
     I especially enjoy sorting through my seed packets, determining which ones I want to grow again this year.
     For seeds that I’ll sow again, I make two new label stakes for each variety – I’ll use one with my first sowing, and the second for a follow-up sowing a month later, filling in whatever gaps appear.  
     Seed packets that are only one or two years old that I will want to sow, I do sow more thickly to offset the probable lessening of germination success.    
     Seeds that are more than 3 years old, I’ll save to sow in a dedicated nursery bed where I’ll thickly scatter the seeds, expecting few to actually germinate but not being willing to give up on them completely by throwing them away or into the compost pile.  This last spring, I did this with a 4-year-old packet of Lacinata kale and was delighted to have 20 plants come up. Good thing that’s my favorite kale variety!
 
Planning Your Cool Weather Garden’s Veggies
      Consider which new crops should follow those just removed.  Follow heavy feeders – that need richly amended soil – with light feeders – that need less-fertilized soil, and vice versa.
     Heavy feeders include beets, broccoli, cabbage, celery, collards, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, endive, escarole, kale, kohlrabi, lettuce, okra, parsley, pumpkins, radishes, rhubarb, spinach, squash, and tomatoes.
     Light feeders include carrots, chard, garlic, leeks, mustard, onions, parsnips, peppers, potatoes, rutabaga, shallots, sweet potatoes, and turnips.
     While you may want to start all of your cool-season seeds immediately, hoping to get a jump on their germination, be aware that the soil temperature ranges for success of cool-season veggies are between 50-65°F.  Soil temperatures for warm season crop germination are between 65-80°F.  Seeds sown outside of those ranges will probably result in poor germination since the seeds will have gone dormant and won’t sprout until the soil temperatures return to their required ranges.
 
Until The Heat Lessens And I Can Go Back Outdoors
     Keep the garden well-watered, down deep below the deepest roots of each plant.
     Fertilize tasseling corn and other vegetables that are setting fruit -- beans, cucumbers, eggplants, tomatoes, etc. -- for increased yields. Plants appreciate this extra boost in food to use immediately in maturing their fruits. But during our extra-hot weather, be sure to water the plants well before AND after incorporating fertilizer so it won't "burn" the roots.
 
Harvesting – The Fun Part!
     Continue to keep vine vegetables (especially beans, cucumbers, squash, and tomatoes) picked, whether or not you will use the harvest that day. If many fruits are allowed to overmature on the plant, production will slow and then cease because the plant thinks it’s done its job – reproducing itself!
     If you have kept plants well-picked, but fruit set has stopped, suspect hot weather. Fruit set will begin again about ten to fourteen days after the temperature stays below 85 to 90 degrees.

 For more tasks for this month, see August.
 
For more of my archived blogs about summer topics, see my Homepage.
​
Here’s the list:
​SUMMER

• Warm-Season Plant Problems and Solutions - 3/28/21
• Oh, Those Crummy Bugs! - 7/18/20
• Tomato Growing Problems & Solutions - 6/17/20
• Recuperating and Dealing With More Heat - 8/6/18
• ​How Deep Is “Watering Deeply”? - 7/21/18
• Yes, It Was Definitely Too Hot! - 7/11/18
• Saving Seeds From Non-Hybrid Vegetables - 8/3/16
• Summer Heat – Solarize Pesty Soil - 7/24/16
• Trimming and Rooting Blooming Plants - 7/13/16
• Amaryllis From Seed to Bloom - 7/4/16
• The Perfect Moment To Harvest - 8/24/15
• Why NOT to Prune Tomato Plants - 7/13/15
• Propagating Plumeria - 7/24/22​
• Stressing Out In This Heat?

 

     It seems so incongruous, having days getting shorter now that we’ve past the summer solstice, but of course the hotter weather does make sense since the calendar says it’s officially now summer.  I did thoroughly enjoy the vvvvvveeeeeeerrrrrrryyyyyyyy lllllllooooooooooooonnnnnnggggg spring we had, with its cool overcast overnights mostly in the 60s-degree range and infrequently getting into the 80s-degree range once the sun burned through the mist.  I loved the long lettuce- and carrot- and greens- and parsley- and cilantro- harvesting season – truly, that’s why I more appreciate cool-weather gardening since we get lots of food but the plants don’t have to struggle to survive much less thrive like they do during hot weather.
 
Loving Those Hot-Weather Lovers
     On the other hand, tomatoes and squash and cukes and peppers and beans are year-round must-haves in my kitchen, so I want to nurture them in my garden as early and as late in the off-seasons as I can manage.  And consequently I’m delighted to now have well-established tomato plants from the first-planted batch with lots of fruits and blossoms already set to promise future yumminess.  Even the volunteer bean plants are producing lots of tender filet beans ahead of everything else.

Having Troubles With Your Tomatoes?
See these previous blog articles:

• Tomato Growing Problems & Solutions - 6/17/20
• Why NOT to Prune Tomato Plants - 7/13/15

    
Saving Seeds of Bolting Lettuce
     I’m continuing to water my lettuce plants from which to harvest the seeds for sowing into my fall garden.  Although it seems contradictory, I want to continue watering to keep the plants absorbing nutrients and maturing completely to produce healthy dry seeds. 
     This is the one time that I have my grocery purchases packed in paper bags instead of my reusable cloth ones, because I need to use the paper ones on my bolted lettuce plants.  Once the seeds have set and the plant foliage begins to dry and shrivel, I tie the paper bag over the head of the lettuce plant.  This corrals the seeds as they dry to crispiness, rather than scattering themselves throughout the garden.  (Of course, there will always be a few excapees who’ll germinate in that bed later on.)
     Using paper instead of plastic bags is critical because the paper allows the lettuce plant foliage to dry out until it’s completely crispy -- the stalk must easily and quickly snap apart. If it still wiggles instead of snapping, it isn’t dry enough.  Any moisture left in the stalk or seedhead may spoil all the seed in the bag as it’s stored until use later on.   
     Store the bags as they are, or smash them down to loosen the seeds from the dry foliage, and place them in a dry dark place until you’re ready to sow them in the fall.
     Sowing in the fall is easily done because you don’t have to separate the seeds from the dry foliage.  Just grab a small handful of the smashed foliage and scatter onto prepared soil in your garden bed or pots.  Try to equally scatter all of the dried foliage over all of the soil or mix, since you never really know which handfuls have seeds and which are mostly dry foliage.  Then sprinkle water onto the bed to gently wet all of the foliage and seeds in place.  The dried foliage acts as a bit of mulch to help keep the seeds in contact with the soil, and to retain the bit of moisture from evaporating.  Sprinkle again twice a day for a week or so to keep the bed surface moist for better germination.  By that time, many seeds will have germinated, so cut watering to about once a week just to keep soil barely moist.

For more monthly tasks, see July.
 
For more main-topic blogs from past years, see Homepage.

     For the first time in years – since the advent of the drought almost a decade ago – I’ve planted a second batch of tomato plants at the end of May.  This used to be my general practice, planting a first batch when 4” containers first appeared in nurseries in February and March; and then another batch in May when the first-batch plants were reaching the second rung on their cages, about 24 inches, beginning to blossom, and just fertilized.
     Until then, I’d kept nipping off any blossoms that appeared earlier so each plant’s energy could focus on establishing a strong root system rather than beginning to expend energy in setting and maturing fruit.
     So after all these recent weeks of gloomy overcast with pleasant mid-70s daytime temperatures and low-60s nighttime temperatures, it finally occurred to me to get another batch of tomato plants growing to guarantee my late-summer harvest after the first-batch plants had quit bearing -- except for the cherry tomatoes, which as indeterminant varieties should continue bearing through at least fall.
   Of course, this new planting will face its own challenges, beginning with a bit of a heat wave this week and daytime temperatures in the upper 80s, although continuing with the soothing morning fog and nighttime temperatures in the low 60s.
      We’ll see how the magic works this time around.
 
Old and New Chard and Kale
     I’d finally pulled the old purple and green chard plants that we’d been eating from since last fall but were now producing only tiny leaves and 6-foot seed stalks.  They’ve gone on to their next life, enrichening the compost pile. 
    I’m now harvesting from the hugely lush new plants in salmon and pink and red-purple colors.
      We’re also harvesting from the dozen or so Tuscan or Dinosaur kale plants came up from seed sown weeks ago. 
      Both of these “greens” make a great combination of textures and nutrition in raw salads, stir-fried in omelettes, and adding to soups and stews.
    
Boysenberries
     The long-lasting overcast and chilly weather are extending the boysenberry ripening.  In the past, we’ve had a couple of quarts in the week of Mother’s Day.  This year, we’ve had a handful ripening every other day since before Mother’s Day – a good three weeks – and the bush is still full of many more berries to ripen. 
      Also because of the weather, the berries aren’t as ripe and I’d like them, but I still wait until the last possible moment to pick them. 
     The three cues/clues to the perfect moment of ripeness are 1) the berries have turned from bright-shiny to dull-matte purple, 2) the green petal cap has dried to tan brown, and 3) “tickling” the berries to fall gently into the palm of your hand (if you try to pick the berry and it won’t easily release, it's not yet ready and will be tart!). 
 
Sowing Summer and Winter Squash Seeds
      All squash are grown during the heat of summer.  How long they grow and when we eat them is determined by whether they’re “summer” or “winter” squash.
     Summer squash – we eat these immature when they’re young and tender, generally immediately after harvesting during the summer, like zucchini, crookneck, scallopini, pattypan.
     Winter squash – we let these develop fully until the skins are hard enough that they can’t be easily punctured with a fingernail,  generally stored for eating during the winter, like pumpkins, acorn, delicata, butternut, spaghetti, dumpling.
     Squash blossoms – we harvest these as soon as they develop on both summer and winter squash and prepare them immediately.
 
Adjust Irrigation Schedule
      Assuming that our “real” hot summer weather is almost upon us, it’s time to adjust automatic and manual watering patterns so that we continue to teach plant roots to grow deeply for water for the rest of the summer.
         Make sure that irrigation drip lines, soaker hoses, sprinklers, and trenches are in place before root systems get too large.
         Water plants deeply so the water sinks below the plant’s root system every time. 
      Watering too frequently means that the water stays within the top inch or two of soil, and this makes the plant susceptible to drying out during hot weather because the soil several inches down where the roots are isn’t kept moist.
    Mulch the soil with organic matter such as compost, leaves or grass clippings to temper the drying and heating effect of the sun, and irrigation will be more effective with less frequency and quantity.
 
For more monthly tasks, see June.
 
For more main-topic blogs from past years, see Homepage.

     You’ve noticed that the weeds are growing lushly and even putting out their blossoms and setting seed.  Time to pull them immediately, with no more delay, since you definitely don’t want them to propagate and recycle themselves. 
    Watering the day before weeding will ease the chore, and weeds' entire root systems will come out more readily. If you leave pulled weeds in garden pathways as drying mulch, be sure to leave them with their roots up so they don't reroot. But never leave weeds that have already developed their seedheads -- some seeds may continue to mature before the foliage completely dries up and some will undoubtedly germinate next year.
     This spring, like last year, has developed into being longer and cooler weather that’s just now transitioning into warm weather.  But, since we don’t know what the real weather will turn out to be over the next month, we can sow and transplant both the last of spring veggies and flowers and the first of the summer ones.  Yes to beets and cilantro and lettuce and parsley and peas -- especially heat-tolerant varieties.  And also yes to tomatoes and cukes and squash and peppers.  No more need to delay since the soil has been thoroughly moistened from the rains and is warm enough to foster great root growth as the air temperatures increase steadily into summer. 
     Ultimately, if the warm weather really settles in, we may not get much from these just-planted cool-season veggies.  In fact, some of my spring-sown cilantro and parsley are already bolting (sending up those sturdy stalks and setting seed), so I’m harvesting them in big clumps and sowing more seed for hopefully another couple of months of eating if the air temperatures remain moderate.
     But if we get more cool or moderately warm weather, both those and the warm-weather seeds and transplants will do nicely as well. Then, it’s win-win for both.  Always good to provide for success regardless of what the weather does..
     Volunteer beans are coming up from last year where I’ve planted tomatoes this year.  I’ll let them coexist on their trellises. I’ll just make sure to keep my eye out for beans amongst the tomato foliage since they’ll set first!
 
Encouraging Pollinators
     Encourage bees to visit your garden for better pollination. They'll come more readily if you provide their favorite plants--including basil, borage, calendulas, catnip, hyssop, lemon balm, mint, summer savory, thyme, and other plants with blue flowers.
     To attract butterflies to your garden, plant asters, lantanas, buddleias ("butterfly bush"!), marigolds, sweet Williams, tithonias (Mexican sunflower), zinnias, and other daisy-like flowers.
 
Trellising
   Trellises provide support for greater fruit production per square foot of soil and for longer periods because more leaf area is exposed to sunlight for more effective photosynthesis, and more air circulation means less fruit rot and ground-insect attack. Vines spreading on a trellis can also provide shade for a porch, patio, or wall. Crops grown on a trellis are easier to pick and cleaner, not available to snails and slugs, and not prone to ground rot.
 
Watering Patterns
     Watering patterns you begin now will help or hinder your plants' abilities to thrive -- not just survive -- during the extended heat of summer.
         When germinating seeds, water the beds or flats both in the morning and in the evening to keep the soil surface moist until at least of the seeds have germinated.  Then, water the baby plants at least once a day until the second set of true leaves develops. "True" leaves look like miniature versions of mature leaves. Then, shift to watering every other day until the plants are large enough to transplant.
     When transplanting seedlings, use less-frequent and deeper watering to encourage roots to grow several inches deeply down into the soil for moisture rather than spreading just below the soil surface because of frequent shallow sprinkling. During hot, dry spells, these deeper roots will have access to moisture for continued strong growth, but the shallow-watered roots won't. This watering pattern will also save you time and irrigation water, since the water will sink deeper and evaporate less. Build soil basins around large plants and trees to prevent runoff until it's absorbed.
 
For more timely garden tasks, see May.
 
For archived major-topic articles, see Homepage.

     It’s raining yet again.  Even though we’ve had so much over the last several months, I continue to appreciate all we receive because it refills the soil pores for future absorption by plants’ roots.  I love hearing the dribbling on the roof, the soft and yellowish cast to the lighting, and knowing that the plants will look lush and healthy during my next walk through the garden.  And the thrill that I’m not paying for the water!
 
Tomato Planting Time
     I’ve let my tomato plants that I purchased 3 weeks ago sit next to the bed where I’ll plant them so they’re acclimated to the area where they’ll live out their lives and produce their tomatoes that I so look forward to. 
     I’ve already incorporated compost and manure so the soil has accomplished its warming-up and cooling-down process before I transplant the tomatoes so their roots aren’t damaged.
    Varieties I’m relying on this year have been my favorites over the years -- Big Rainbow, Black Zebra, Black Krim, Celebrity, Cherokee Carbon, Cherokee Purple, Pineapple, and Sungold.
     Last year’s tomatoes planted in another area with more late-afternoon shade didn’t produce many fruits although their plants were tall and lush – telltale signs of being too happy and never getting around to reproducing themselves. 
     In that area this year, I’ll plant other edibles that can benefit from the apparent too much nitrogen and water and less direct sun, like broccoli and lettuce and kale and chard that we eat the greenery instead of waiting for fruit.
 
Still Not Planting Other Veggies
    I’m still not seeding or transplanting other summer-loving veggies like beans, cucumbers, and squash since the soil is just too cool.  In past years, the weather would have already consistently been warm and therefore the soil would also have warmed.  But this year we’ve had only a couple of single days of 70-80 degree temperatures for a continuous early spring climate.  So, instead of trying to get an early start for the summer-loving veggies, I’m choosing to wait until the seeds will be happy to germinate quickly, especially since the soil is so nicely hydrated with all this rain.
       I’ve learned this lesson from years of trying to beat the season with planting seeds and seedlings as early as I possibly could, but with consistently unsuccessful results of poor germination and unvigorous plants until later plantings. 
     After years of observing the seeds and plants struggling through the still-chilly weather, I’m now committed to waiting for the warmth to consistently remain before subjecting seeds and transplants to poor conditions.  I want to see seeds pop up out of the soil and transplants perkily carrying on with their growth.
 
For more garden tasks, go to April
 
For past blogs on seasonal themes, go to Homepage
 
 
 
 
 

Following all that wonderful rain – with commiseration to those folks who sustained damage – our gardens are not only waking up with lots of greenery but sending up blooms galore.  What glorious color and lushness as we walk through our gardens! 

​The weeds are lush as well, however, so make a point of getting them out of the garden while the soil is still moist so you can remove the entire root systems so they don’t resprout.  The wonderful part of the frequent rains over the past several months was to help the California poppies and other wildflowers germinate and then continue developing into sturdy plants.  We’ll see whether the weather continues to be moderate so the plants can grow steadily and strongly and hopefully produce a great bloom season.
 
Edibles
 
Edibles we’ve been enjoying the continual harvest include lettuces and chard and kale that overwintered so well.  Peas are continuing their blooming and setting and picking sequence.  Bok choy and beets and carrots are just attaining harvesting size. Broccoli, cauliflower and kohlrabi are developing into sizeable plants.  Cilantro and parsley are just coming up. 
 
Broccoli Raab has come and gone with just a few plants, just like last year.  I just can’t seem to get many of them to germinate well even when I sow them so early and repeatedly, despite the “perfect” rains keeping soil moist and the warmish temperatures.  Maybe I’ll have to start the process even earlier next September.
 
I’m doing another sowing of Wando peas, which are tolerant of warm weather both at the beginning of the sowing season in October and at the end of the harvesting season in June.  The time between these beginnings and endings, I sow all the other varieties of peas that love the chilly growing temperatures.
 
Even though the weather feels like we’ve turned the corner to warm spring and summer, hold off on transplanting summer vegetables except for tomatoes.   Tomatoes are the only summer vegetables that can tolerate the garden’s still-cool soil. They’ll thrive even more successfully if you’ve amended the soil with organic matter and fertilizer prior to planting, spread their roots and watered them in well. 
 
This magic, however, doesn’t work with other summer veggies like cucumbers, eggplant, melon, peppers, and squash, which will just sit and pout if planted while the soil is still cold.  They may not even recuperate ultimately once the soil has warmed in another month.  Best to just wait a good month before getting them into the ground. Then, they’ll take off and develop more successfully.
 
For more garden tasks, go to March.
 
For more major-topic blogs, go to Homepage.
 
 

     Once you've started your tomato seeds indoors - since they need temperatures between 70-80 to germinate - and they've developed their second set of "true" leaves, you can utilize this technique to get them growing strongly in anticipation of transplanting them outdoors in a couple of months when the soil is warm.
​     One technique to assure sturdy tomato plants from seeds started indoors uses quart-size plastic food storage bags. Folding the bags into square boxes allows several bags to fit together as a group in a square drip tray. Also, each plant's root system is concentrated in blocks that are easy to transplant into the garden. To prepare each bag, fold the bottom two corners under to meet, point to point, and tape them in place. Clip the four new corners for drainage.
     Transplant each two-inch tall seedling into its own bag. Fold down the top of each bag to just above the soil level of the plant. Pack each together in the drip tray, and place the tray in a bright but cool area. As the plants grow, add more soil every few days up to the top two leaves, pulling up the sides of the bag as necessary. Water and feed as usual. Turn the whole tray every day or so so that the plants grow straight. The resulting transplants often have half-inch sturdy stems.
     Two main planting techniques will encourage roots to form along the length of the buried stem. The upright deep-planting method is generally chosen by gardeners in areas with warm springs and summers and those who have loose soils in raised beds. The horizontal planting method is more useful for gardens with cooler springs and summers and soils that are heavy.
     For deep planting into the garden, cut open the bottom of the bag, and set the plant and its entire root system into an eight-inch-deep hole deep enough to bury the plant up to its top set of leaves. Slip the bag up and out of the hole over the plant. Fill in the hole with soil, and pull extra soil into a berm  several inches out from the plant. 
     For horizontal planting, also cut open the bottom of the bag, but turn the plant on its side and gently urge it out so it's laying down sideways in a three- inch-deep trench long enough to accommodate the root section and half of the plant stem. Gently bend the plant's top two leaves up above the soil surface.  Fill in the hole with soil, and pull extra soil into a berm several inches out from the plant.
     Fill the berms in with water three times to make sure all the soil is thoroughly moistened.  The third time, use a half-strength solution of a balanced complete fertilizer such as 10-10-10. "Balanced" means all the N-P-K numbers are the same. "Complete" means that there is at least some of each N, P, and K; none of the numbers is a zero, such as 0-10-10.