Several roses blooming after last October's pruning.

Several brassicas going to seed.  Fortunately, the foliage - including the blossoms themselves - is still tender and sweet, great raw for salads and stir-fried or cooked. 

Four variations of Ferraria crispa.  Although each bloom lasts only one day, each stem has a couple of dozen that open gradually.  The whole display may last a month.

Several freesia colors.

Scilla peruviana, Portuguese squill. 

Four camellias blooming.

     With this week’s daytime temperatures topping 90 degrees every day, and nighttime temperatures above 60, it appears that we’re finally moving into summertime.  My first beans, cukes, and squash have germinated, and my tomatoes are well up to the second rung on their cages and putting out blossoms.  So I thought I’d provide these warm-season-plant-problems-and-solutions tips earlier in the season so you can be ahead of the curve in checking out your plants and taking care of any issues. 

Previous Blogs you may want to refer to, about everyone's favorite veggie - TOMATOES - are:
6/17/20 Tomato Growing Problems and Solutions
3/20/20 Happy Spring!  Transplanting Tomatoes Technique 
 
Beans
PROBLEM:   Healthy  plants that drop their blossoms or stop setting  them  may be strained from a previously heavy harvest,  or some overmature pods may still remain on the plant, thus inhibiting the setting of new fruit.  Too much nitrogen fertilizer can also contribute, as can hot weather over 85 degrees and low soil moisture.  After air temperatures return to below 85 degrees, it may take another two weeks for plants to set new blossoms.
SOLUTION:  Make sure to harvest all pods as they mature, and wait for new pods to set.   Incorporate a balanced fertilizer, and sidedress with a low-nitrogen fertilizer.   Plant  early in the season to avoid hot weather during the blossoming period, and water deeply and more frequently.
 
PROBLEM:  Bacterial blight  spreads quickly on wet foliage and is evidenced by large brown spots on leaves and water-soaked spots on pods.
SOLUTION:  Pull up and destroy (don’t compost) affected plants.  Avoid handling wet foliage.
 
PROBLEM:   Leaves with small red or black blisters that turn yellow,  dry  up, and drop are affected by rust.
SOLUTION:  Plant resistant varieties.   Destroy diseased plants after harvest.  Use new stakes for climbing varieties.  Avoid handling foliage when the plants are wet.
 
PROBLEM:  Beans become shriveled and limp when they have received insufficient irrigation.
SOLUTION:  Beans should never dry out.  Never handle the plants, however, when the foliage is wet.                 
 
Corn
PROBLEM:  If plants grow slowly early in the season,  the climate is still too cool.
SOLUTION:   Cover  plants  with hotcaps to retain heat, or  wait  for  warmer weather to sow the seed.
 
PROBLEM:   Leaves  that roll upwards indicate that the plant  needs  immediate irrigation.
SOLUTION:   Irrigate more deeply and frequently to keep soil consistently moist.   Provide organic mulches  to retain soil moisture.
 
PROBLEM:   Leaves  that  develop green and yellow striping at their  base  are deficient  in  zinc.   This occurs more frequently on wet heavy soils  in  the early spring and may be due to excessive phosphorous.
SOLUTION:  Incorporate manure.
 
PROBLEM:  Leaves that appear streaked are deficient in potash,  especially  if the plants are grown on very light soil that is easily leached.
SOLUTION:  Incorporate manure,  seaweed,  wood ashes, greensand, granite dust, non-woody plant residues, manure, or compost to aerate the soil.
 
PROBLEM:  Yellow striping on leaves indicate a manganese deficiency, especially on soils with a pH above 6.7. 
SOLUTION:  Incorporate manure that includes micronutrients.
 
PROBLEM:  Reddish streaks on leaves point to a phosphorus deficiency.
SOLUTION:  Sidedress with a complete fertilizer.
 
PROBLEM:  Holes can be chewed in leaves by various insects.
SOLUTION:  Ignore the damage unless it is severe,  or handpick and destroy the insects.  The loss of a small amount of leaf will not reduce the yield.
 
PROBLEM:  Stunted plants with speckled leaves and ears that are filled but may have missing kernels have sugar cane mosaic.
SOLUTION:  Plant resistant varieties.
 
PROBLEM:   Stalks that fall over after a moderate wind,  especially after rain or irrigation,  need to have their roots anchored better. 
SOLUTION:   Corn is naturally shallow-rooted and needs to have soil hilled  up around  the base of the stalks.   Add more every two weeks until tasseling  begins.   This extra soil also serves as a mulch to retain moisture.
 
PROBLEM:   Corn earworms are bright green to purplish-brown worms that may  be present  on the silks or eating their way down through the kernels at the  tip of the ears.   Brown,  sawdust-like material close to the damaged area  accompanies the worm.
SOLUTION:   Plant  resistant varieties as early in the season as  possible  to avoid higher populations later in the summer.   Apply Bt, lime, or mineral oil to  silks  just inside the tip of each ear as soon as the silks have begun  to turn brown.  Applying these sooner will interfere with pollination and  result in poorly-filled ears.   In hot,  dry weather,  however, the oil may spoil the ears.   Encourage lacewings,  toads, spiders, and ladybird beetles.  Break off and  destroy  the damaged portions of the ears.   Destroy (don’t compost) the ears or portions which  have been damaged to prevent the worm from maturing.
 
PROBLEM:   Small  ears that are poorly filled with incompletely  developed  or shriveled kernels - but with no insect damage - result from poor  pollination, insufficient irrigation (especially from silking through harvest), hot weather or  high winds from two to three weeks before harvest,  or planting a  variety that is not adapted to the area.
SOLUTION:  Plant corn at least four rows wide and long to encourage pollination by breeze.   Water and fertilize the corn well,  as it is a heavy drinker and feeder. Grow varieties that are appropriate to your area.
 
PROBLEM:   Kernels that are tough and doughy, somewhat shrunken, and taste starchy haven’t been watered enough. 
SOLUTION:   Irrigate corn deeply for the approximately three weeks  from  when the  silks  first appear until they dry up and the kernels are full  of  milky juice.   If the corn is not harvested during this milk stage,  its sugar turns into starch.
 
PROBLEM:   Large gnarled galls that are greyish-white to black are from a smut infestation  that thrives in hot,  dry weather.   Late-maturing corn  is  more susceptible.
SOLUTION:   Plant fungus-disease-resistant seeds early in the season on a  three-year rotation  of  crops.   Remove and destroy affected plants as soon as they  are noticed, and keep the powder from spreading.  Do not compost. Huitlacoche is prized in the Hispanic and Latino culture.
 
Cucumber Family:  Cucumber, Pumpkin, Squash
PROBLEM:  When vines wilt, and leaves have small specks which turn yellow, and brown, the squash bug has infected the plant.
SOLUTION:   Handpick  and destroy the adults and their  egg  clusters.   Plant resistant varieties.   Rotate crops.   Apply wood ashes or an ash-water spray.  Squash bugs hate catnip,  pink petunias,  radishes,  marigolds, orange nasturtiums, and tansy, so planting these will provide garden beauty while deterring the  bugs.   Plant  new  crops as far away as possible  from  the  previously-infested crop.  Trellised plants are less susceptible. 
 
PROBLEM:  Leaves that are eaten may have been enjoyed by the cucumber beetle.
SOLUTION:  Plant late in the season.  Cultivate the soil thoroughly, and mulch heavily.  Dust plants with rotenone for a serious infestation.  Striped cucumber beetles love goldenrod more than cucumbers, melons, and pumpkins, so plant some of these as sacrificial attractants.   Interplant with catnip, radish, or tansy.  Natural enemies are the soldier beetle, braconid wasp, and nematode.
 
PROBLEM:  If plants suddenly wilt,  have parts chewed, and yellow sawdust-like deposits are at the base of the stems, the squash vine borer is in residence.
SOLUTION:  Make succession plantings. Slit the stems and remove and destroy the borer.   Cover the damaged area and every fifth leaf node with soil to encourage rooting,  so that the vine will continue to grow beyond the slit.  Destroy (don’t compost) all vines after harvest.
 
PROBLEM:  When mature plants are healthy but no blossoms or fruit set after  a particularly  heavy  harvest or some mature fruits still remain on the  plant, the plants are just temporarily resting from their exertion.
SOLUTION:  Harvest as fruits ripen, even if they will not be used immediately.
 
PROBLEM:  Blossoms that appear but don't set fruit,  or the fruits shrivel and fall off,  may result from several causes.  Early-season flowers are male, and female  blossoms will follow and set properly.   Blooming and fruit  set  will resume about a week after night temperatures that were too cool or too hot, or an unusually heavy fruit set.  In addition, lack of moisture, poor soil fertility, too much shade, and various diseases may also contribute. 
SOLUTION:   Fruit  should  set properly later in the  season.   Irrigate  more frequently and deeply to keep soil evenly moist.  Incorporate a complete fertilizer.
 
PROBLEM:  Cucumbers that taste bitter, especially just under the skin and more deeply  at  the stem end,  may be due to older  varieties,  overmature  fruit, alternately hot and dry temperatures,  daily temperature fluctuations that are greater  than 20 degrees,  excessive nitrogen,  or irregular growth  resulting from inadequate or infrequent moisture.
SOLUTION:  Choose newer varieties.  Irrigate more deeply and frequently during hot,  dry weather,  and harvest fruit when it is ready.  For eating,  cut  and discard the bitter end portions,  and heat the cucumbers for one minute in boiling water to draw off the bitterness, then discard the water.
 
PROBLEM:  Misshapen fruits can result from inadequate moisture,  poor pollination,  or confined development.  When the weather is too cool or too hot, bees are  not available,  and pollination is not complete.   When blossoms cling to the  fruit after overhead watering,  or the fruit is confined in the  foliage, fruit development is restricted, and odd shapes result. 
SOLUTION:   Irrigate  more  deeply and  frequently,  and  underneath  foliage. Encourage  bees  to your garden by  providing  blue-flowering  plants.   Avoid overhead  watering during blossoming.   Provide trellises or other support  to release fruits from being bound in the plant foliage.
 
PROBLEM:  Scab,  which thrives in foggy, cool weather, causes dry, corky spots on fruit,  leaves,  and stems.   Sap oozes from the fruits,  and greenish mold develops.
SOLUTION:   Pull up and destroy (don’t compost) infected plants immediately.   Plant resistant varieties.   Rotate the crop so that they are not grown in the same soil  more frequently than every three years.
 
PROBLEM:   Squash and pumpkins that rot during storage were probably not  sufficiently cured or properly stored - or are next to ones that are spoiling.
SOLUTION:   Let the fruit mature completely before harvesting,  and cure  them thoroughly.  Store in a dry place out of direct sun at 40 to 60 degrees.
 
Melons:  Cantaloupe, Honeydew, Muskmelon, Watermelon
PROBLEM:   When vines wilt and leaves have small specks which turn yellow  and brown, the squash bug has infected the plant.
SOLUTION:  Handpick the adults and their egg clusters.  Plant resistant varieties.   Rotate crops.   Apply wood ashes or an ash-water spray.   Squash  bugs hate pink petunias,  radishes,  orange nasturtiums, and marigolds, so planting them will provide garden beauty while deterring the bugs. 
 
PROBLEM:  Melons taste bitter when they ripen in cold, wet weather. 
SOLUTION:  Plant melons so that they mature in warm weather.
 
Peppers and Eggplants
PROBLEM:  Leaves roll downwards, but there is no yellowing or stunting. 
SOLUTION:  Nothing is needed, as the fruit yield will not be affected.
 
PROBLEM:   Plants  that  grow very slowly and either don't set blooms  or  the blooms  drop off are suffering from weather that is too cool.
SOLUTION:   Wait until warmer weather to plant,  or provide hotcaps to concentrate the warmth.
 
PROBLEM:  When mature plants are lush, but no fruit sets, too much nitrogen is the problem.
SOLUTION:   Incorporate  a balanced fertilizer  when  planting,  and  sidedress several times during the growing season with a low-nitrogen fertilizer.
 
PROBLEM:   Pepper blossoms or young fruit drop when plants have been  stressed from  lack  of water,  air temperatures above 85 degrees,  too many mature fruits not  yet harvested, or magnesium deficiency.
SOLUTION:   Peppers  are only moderately deep-rooted and recover  slowly  from drought injury.   Harvest fruits,  and blossoms will begin setting  again.   A solution  of one tablespoon of Epsom salts to one quart of water sprayed  onto leaves  and  blossoms several times through the bearing season will aid  fruit set.
 
PROBLEM:  Peppers may be eaten from the inside by pepper maggots.
SOLUTION:  Destroy (don’t compost) the affected fruit.   Spray adult flies (yellow with  brown bands on wings) with rotenone before they lay maggot eggy in the peppers.
 
PROBLEM:  Eggplant fruit have brownish spots of rot that are especially severe during wet weather.
SOLUTION:   Plant  resistant varieties.  Rotate so that they are not grown  on same soil more frequently than once in every 4 years.
 
Potatoes, Sweet
PROBLEM:   Stem rot causes young plants to die after transplanting,  and  survivors develop bright yellow leaves which pucker,  wilt,  and die.  Harvest is of poor quality. 
SOLUTION:   Plant certified seed of resistant pieces.   Rotate the crop  so that plants grow in the same soil only once in four years.  Avoid overcrowding and overfertilization.
 
PROBLEM:  Tubers that are long and thin have received too much nitrogen.
SOLUTION:  Incorporate a balanced fertilizer when planting, and sidedress with a low-nitrogen fertilizer.
 
PROBLEM:  Tubers with a brown to black surface discoloration that is only skin deep and can be scraped off easily have scurf.  It is most severe on heavy wet soils with a high level of manure.
SOLUTION:   Plant healthy sprouts from certified seed stock.  Incorporate compost to lighten the soil and provide better drainage.  Rotate the crop so that potatoes grow in the same soil only once every four years.   Eating quality is not harmed.
 
PROBLEM:   White mold starts on bruised areas and develops into  soft,  watery rot on stored tubers. 
SOLUTION:   Plant certified seed of resistant varieties.   Avoid  bruising tubers  during harvest.   Cure tubers in a dark,  humid,  and  well-ventilated atmosphere at 80 to 90 degrees for two weeks.  Store in a dry, well-ventilated area at 55 to 60 degrees.  Avoid overcrowding.
 
PROBLEM:   Tubers are rough and oddly shaped when they are grown in soil  that is too heavy.
SOLUTION:  Incorporate organic matter to lighten the soil texture.
 
PROBLEM:  Tubers are dry and rough-textured when they have endured alternately wet and dry conditions.
SOLUTION:  Irrigate deeper and more frequently.
 
Potatoes, White
PROBLEM:  Potatoes that fail to emerge after planting the seed pieces in  cold wet  soil  may  have rotted.   If the potatoes were purchased at  the  grocery store, they may have been sprayed with a sprout retardant.
SOLUTION:  Plant only certified seed of resistant pieces when the soil has warmed.  Incorporate compost to lighten the soil and provide better drainage. 
 
PROBLEM:  Potato tuberworm eats tunnels in the tubers, and the shoots wilt and die. 
SOLUTION:   Keep potato plants deeply hilled with soil.  Don't allow  soil  to crack.  Destroy infested vines and tubers.
 
PROBLEM:   Leafroll  virus  and net necrosis cause plants to  be  stunted  and markedly  yellow  and leaves to uniformly roll upward.  Cut tubers have  brown netting.
SOLUTION:  Plant only certified seed of resistant pieces.   Spray peach trees for  overwintering green peach aphid (the carrier).
 
PROBLEM:   Stunted  growth and leaves that turn yellow and brown  between  the veins and become brittle may be suffering from magnesium deficiency.
SOLUTION:  Incorporate dolomitic limestone or a handful of Epsom salts.
 
PROBLEM:  Rhizoctonia,  black scurf,  causes vines to suddenly wilt,  stems to have brown lesions,  and tubers to have irregular raised,  black,  hard bodies and  be  roughened in a cross-patched pattern.   It is more prevalent in  wet, cold, heavy, and poorly-drained soil.
SOLUTION:  Plant clean certified seed of resistant varieties.  Rotate the crop to  a  new area with cereal or corn crops on a five-year  basis.   Incorporate compost  to lighten the soil and provide better drainage.   Plant as  late  as possible in the season.
 
PROBLEM:   Tubers  crack  from sudden growth resulting from  heavy  irrigation after long drought conditions.
SOLUTION:  Water deeply and more frequently in dry weather.
 
PROBLEM:  Tubers are knobby-shaped or have cavities in their centers when they have undergone alternately wet and dry conditions.
SOLUTION:  Irrigate to keep soil more evenly moist.   Incorporate compost to lighten the soil and maintain a more even moisture.
 
PROBLEM:   Tubers  with corky scabs on their skin surfaces are  infected  with common  scab  that is most frequently a problem in  dry,  sandy,  or  gravelly  soils that are alkaline,  lacking in organic matter,  or have a high level  of fresh manure.
SOLUTION:  Plant resistant varieties.  Avoid using wood ashes,  lime, or fresh manure.   Potatoes are safe to eat after removing the scabby areas.  Incorporate  compost  to improve the soil texture and its ability to remain moist  but not wet.   Grow and turn under a green manure crop - the soil will become more acidic,  and rapidly decaying matter will encourage beneficial organisms  that compete with scab.  Rotate crops on 5-year basis.
 
PROBLEM:   Stored  tubers  become soft and rotten from infection  that  gained entrance through wounds inflicted during harvest and storage.
SOLUTION:  Avoid wounding tubers during harvest and storage.

Tomatoes
See my previous Blogs:
6/17/20 Tomato Growing Problems and Solutions
3/20/20 Happy Spring!  Transplanting Tomatoes Technique 



More Gardening Tips for This Month
See March and April.
​

    We're getting to the end of our cool growing season, with perhaps two more months of coolness before summer's heat blasts its way through our gardens.  Perhaps you've had some of the primary problems listed here regarding the main veggies we grow during the cool season, so you can benefit from some of the solutions.  If nothing else, you'll be aware of some things that may appear in future gardens, and now you'll know how to deal with them! ​
 
Asparagus

PROBLEM:   Plants  that turn tan or brown from their tops downward  have  been attacked by the asparagus beetle.
SOLUTION:   Hose  off  plants with a strong stream of water  to  dislodge  the beetles.   Remove and destroy the beetles and their larvae as soon as they are noticed.   Spray heavy infestations with rotenone.   Rotenone kills beneficial insects also,  so use only for really major infestations.   Plant tomatoes  as repellents.
 
PROBLEM:   Stems  and branches with reddish-brown spots have been infected  by asparagus rust.   The entire plant yellows,  weakens,  and dies.   Rust  needs dampness to germinate.
SOLUTION:   Plant resistant varieties.   Avoid damp or low-lying  areas.   Cut tops close to the soil, and destroy (don’t compost) them.
 
PROBLEM:   If  spears are thin and weak or do not come up at all,  the  plants have  been  weakened  by poor cultural care,  previous attack  by  insects  or disease, frost or drought, or they have been harvested too heavily previously.
SOLUTION:   Fertilize and irrigate the plants adequately.   Control damage  by pests  and  competition with weeds.   Mulch soil to protect  the  plants  from freezing  or  drought conditions.   Do not harvest until spears are  from  one quarter to three-eighths inch wide.  Limit harvest to allow plants to recover.
 
PROBLEM:   Spears that are tough are too mature,  or perhaps the soil was  too acid or not fertile enough.
SOLUTION:   Harvest when the spears are six to eight inches long.  The  plants are  heavy  feeders,  so  mulch them with lots of manure during  the  fall  or winter.  Rains and irrigation will then wash "manure tea" down to the roots. 
 
Beets

PROBLEM:   A  cracked root results from sudden growth after  heavy  irrigation following drought conditions.
SOLUTION:   Irrigate deeply and more frequently to keep soil evenly moist.   Provide organic mulches  to help retain moisture.
 
PROBLEM:  If the root is chewed,  root maggots or wireworms have been enjoying your beets.
SOLUTION:  Incorporate wood ashes into the soil.
 
PROBLEM:   Root is not sweet-tasting and become stringy and woody  when  it is  too mature or has matured late in the summer,  or when they haven't been watered adequately.
SOLUTION:  Water deeply and more frequently.  Harvest when roots are no larger than  one to two inches in diameter.   Plant them so that they  mature  during cool weather.
 
PROBLEM:  Roots that are too small have been sown too closely together. 
SOLUTION:   Each seed is a composite that will develop into several beets,  so allow enough  space when sowing,  and thin and eat the young beets.  Young beet greens make excellent raw or cooked additions to salads.
 
PROBLEM:   Roots  with  internal black spots suffer from a  boron  deficiency, which is most prevalent in dry, alkaline soils that are high in calcium.
SOLUTION:  Incorporate some borax into the soil.  
 
Cabbage Family:  Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kohlrabi

PROBLEM:   Plants  that wilt and fall over and have tunneled stems  and  roots have been feasted upon by the cabbage root maggot. 
SOLUTION:  Plant seeds early in the fall so they develop into large,  vigorous transplants  that  overwinter well and can be harvested early in  the  spring.  Protect seedlings with cheesecloth cover to prevent the adult black flies from laying their eggs in the surrounding soil.  Place collars around  transplants.  Dust with a mixture of lime and wood ashes or with diatomaceous earth - but be certain  to purchase only the type sold for garden use,  not that labeled  for swimming pool use.  Interplant with mint, rosemary, sage, and tomato.
 
PROBLEM:  When plants are stunted,  leaves yellow and wilt, and roots are misshapen and enlarged with club-shaped knots that rot and become slimy, clubroot is the problem. 
SOLUTION:   Plant healthy transplants of a resistant variety.   Rotate  crops.  Maintain  soil  pH  above 7 by sprinkling wood ashes around the  base  of  the plant. 
 
PROBLEM:   Plants  with foliage edges that appear burnt have been affected  by water stress and calcium deficiency,  especially on dry soils which are acidic or high in potassium.
SOLUTION:   Provide  plants  with sufficient water to  maintain  their  steady growth.   Calcium is not available to plants at a low pH.  Dolomitic limestone is a good source of lime and magnesium.  The finer the grade of the limestone, the faster it can break down in the soil, raise the pH, and enable the calcium to be utilized.   Incorporate bone meal,  gypsum,  and plant residues.  Rotate crops.
 
PROBLEM:   Cabbage  or brussels sprouts heads suddenly split  when  they  have grown  suddenly as a result of too much fertilizer or water after a  prolonged dry period, making the inner leaves grow faster than the outer leaves, so bursting their way through. 
SOLUTION:  Do not allow the soil to get too dry.   Apply water slowly at first after a dry period.
 
PROBLEM:   Cauliflower  heads  that look cracked and may have  leaves  growing through  the head may be overmature or subjected to excessive nitrogen or  hot or dry weather. 
SOLUTION:   Do not let the soil dry out.   Plant varieties appropriate to  the area so that they mature before the weather gets too hot.
 
PROBLEM:   Cauliflower  forms  heads when the plants are still  small  if  the weather gets too warm before there is sufficient plant development.
SOLUTION:   Plant earlier in the season so that plants can mature before  warm temperatures trigger heading.
 
PROBLEM:  If cauliflower heads are only the size of buttons,  nitrogen  deficiency or poor drainage may be at fault.
SOLUTION:  Apply a nitrogen fertilizer, and aerate the soil to improve drainage for the next crop.  The tiny heads won’t get any larger.
 
PROBLEM:  Cauliflower heads that are brown, stunted, deformed, hollow-stemmed, or with pithy cores may be suffering from boron deficiency.
SOLUTION:  Apply a complete fertilizer with micronutrients.
 
PROBLEM:   Cauliflower heads that turn yellow or brown have been sunburned  or frosted. 
SOLUTION:   Plant  cauliflower so that they mature before the  first  expected frost.   When the head is three inches across,  tie the outer leaves up around it, and harvest it from four to seven days later.
 
PROBLEM:   Foliage  that is deformed,  wilted,  and has whitish  or  yellowish spotting has been infected by the harlequin bug.
SOLUTION:   Handpick  and  destroy adults and egg  clusters.   Control  nearby weeds.  For severe infestations, spray with pyrethrum, rotenone, or sabadilla.  Rotenone  and  sabadilla kill beneficial insects also,  so use them  only  for really major infestations. 
 
PROBLEM:   Large ragged holes in the foliage and the presence of green  caterpillars indicate the presence of cabbage worms.
SOLUTION:  Handpick and destroy worms and egg clusters.  Spray with Bt (Dipel, Thuricide,  Biotrol) every seven to ten days.  The adult white butterfly moths will be deterred by planting hyssop,  pennyroyal,  rosemary,  sage, thyme, and wormwood.   Spray a diluted solution of ground leaves of these plants onto the crops,  reapplying after rains or overhead irrigation.  Spread cheesecloth over the crops and anchor it at the soil level to keep the moths from reaching  the crops to lay their eggs.
 
Carrots

PROBLEM:   Roots that are hairy,  forked,  or misshapen have been overwatered, overfertilized, or grown in rocky or cloddy soil. 
SOLUTION:   Plant  in raised beds.   Incorporate compost to lighten  soil  and improve drainage.
 
PROBLEM:   Cavities  in roots indicate water stress  and  calcium  deficiency, especially on dry soils which are acidic or high in potassium.
SOLUTION:   Provide  plants  with sufficient water to  maintain  their  steady growth.   Calcium is not available to plants at a low pH.  Dolomitic limestone is a good source of lime and magnesium.  The finer the grade of the limestone, the faster it can break down in the soil, raise the pH, and enable the calcium to be utilized.   Incorporate bone meal,  gypsum,  and plant residues.  Rotate crops.
 
PROBLEM:   Roots  that grow twisted around one another have been  planted  too closely together.
SOLUTION:  Sow carrots more thinly.  As they grow, thin them to an inch apart. 
 
Celery

PROBLEM:  Stunted plants with greenish or water-soaked spots on the leaves and sunken lesions on the stalks are infected by blight, which is favored by cool, moist weather, and easily spread by splashing water droplets. 
SOLUTION:   Use clean seed of resistant varieties.   Oversow seed that is more than two years old to compensate for lessened viability.   Avoid handling  wet foliage.
 
PROBLEM:   Pinkish,  water-soaked  areas on stalks which rot and taste  bitter have pink rot.
SOLUTION:  Plant resistant varieties.  Destroy infected plants.  Rotate crops.  Avoid planting where cabbage, celery, or lettuce has been planted.
 
PROBLEM:  Cracked stems indicate a boron deficiency,  especially in dry  soils with a pH above 6.8.
SOLUTION:  Incorporate lime, manure.  Irrigate deeply and more frequently.
 
PROBLEM:   A blackened central portion identifies blackheart and results  from calcium  deficiency in the young,  rapidly-growing leaves.   This occurs  more frequently  on  dry,  acidic  soils under stressful  growing  conditions - hot weather, alternately wet and dry soil, and high potassium levels.
SOLUTION:  Incorporate bone meal,  gypsum, and organic compost.  Mulch plants, and water deeply and more frequently to maintain high moisture levels.  If the soil  is  high in potassium,  avoid using wood ashes  and  manure.   Dolomitic limestone is a good source of lime and magnesium.   The finer the grade of the limestone,  the faster it can break down in the soil, raise the pH, and enable the calcium to be utilized.  Rotate crops.
 
Lettuce

PROBLEM:  Leaves that are bleached and paper thin have matured in weather that is too hot. 
SOLUTION:   Plant  summer-maturing varieties rather than try to  lengthen  the season for those that should mature in cool weather.
 
PROBLEM:   Tipburn causes foliage edges to appear burnt and results from water stress  and calcium deficiency,  especially on dry soils which are  acidic  or high  in potassium and on hot,  dry summer days after cloudy weather or  heavy irrigation.
SOLUTION:   Provide more regular deep watering.   Calcium is not available  to plants  in soils that are a low pH.   Dolomitic limestone is a good source  of lime and magnesium.   The finer the grade of the limestone,  the faster it can break down in the soil,  raise the pH,  and enable the calcium to be utilized.  Incorporate bone meal, gypsum, and organic matter.  Rotate crops.
 
PROBLEM:  Inner leaves of head lettuce that develop black and slimy edges is due to hot weather. 
SOLUTION:   Plant warm-season varieties for warm-season  maturing,  and  plant cool-season varieties so that they mature in cooler weather.
 
PROBLEM:   Lettuce that tastes bitter has matured when the weather is too hot. 
SOLUTION:   Plant the proper varieties for maturing at different  times.   Sow fewer  seeds at a time,  and sow them  one or two weeks apart,  so  that  they mature consecutively.   Harvest them promptly.  For eating, rinse the lettuce, shake  off  the excess water,  and let it sit in the refrigerator for  several days - the bitterness will dissipate.
 
PROBLEM:  Lettuce that goes to seed before it can be harvested was planted too late in the season.
SOLUTION:  Make successive plantings of varieties appropriate for your area so that they mature in different seasons and levels of light and heat.
 
Onion Family:  Chives, Garlic, Leek, Onion, Shallot

PROBLEM:  Plants send up flower stalks rather than forming bulbs when the bulb sets  were planted when they were too large,  planted too early,  or kept  too warm  for too long prior to planting;  the soil was allowed to become too dry; or there was a period of cold weather after plants were grown in warm  weather for six to ten weeks.
SOLUTION:   Plant  seeds  just before a frost period for a greater variety of shapes, sizes, colors, and flavors.   Plant sets  which  are smaller  than one-half inch in diameter during or after frost  period.   Plant larger bulb sets for use as cool-weather green onions.   These will bolt (send up their seedstalk) with the  slightest  hint of warmth.   Water onions deeply and more  frequently  to maintain their steady growth. 
 
PROBLEM:   Plants stay small and do not produce bulbs if they have been insufficiently fertilized or irrigated,  or they are the wrong variety.   For example, bunching onions don't produce bulbs. 
SOLUTION:   Plant  bulbing varieties.   Apply a balanced  fertilizer  in  late spring,  and  water  onions  well until their tops turn brown and  fall  over, signaling maturation.
 
PROBLEM:   Plants that grow slowly and develop thick necks may result  from  a phosphorous deficiency or excessive nitrogen or water.
SOLUTION:   Incorporate  a  high-phosphorous fertilizer - bone  meal,  finely ground rock phosphate,  fish meal,  manure, compost, cottonseed meal, and soybean meal.  Incorporate organic matter to improve drainage. 
 
PROBLEM:  Leaves striped with yellow indicate a manganese  deficiency,  especially on soils with a pH above 6.7.
SOLUTION:  Incorporate manure.
 
PROBLEM:   Leaves  that  have whitish blotches streaked with silver  may  have thrips.   Heavily infested plants become stunted,  the leaves are bleached and die back,  and the necks grow abnormally thick.   Thrips are worst in hot, dry seasons.
SOLUTION:   Plant  tolerant and resistant varieties.   Dust with  diatomaceous earth.   Spray  with  a soap mixture or rotenone.   Keep the garden  clean  of weeds.
 
PROBLEM:   Leaves that are pale or greenish-yellow may be deficient in  nitrogen, perhaps from leaching out after long, wet periods.
SOLUTION:   Incorporate a high-nitrogen  fertilizer,  blood  meal,  cottonseed meal, manure, or compost.
 
PROBLEM:  Fluffy white rot begins at the base and spreads to the foliage,  and bulbs have a soft watery rot.
SOLUTION:  Destroy (don’t compost) diseased plant immediately.  Rotate crop to new soil.
 
PROBLEM:  Onion maggots tunnel cavities in the lower stem and bulb, and plants may  wilt and die.   Susceptibility is greatest with white varieties,  less so with yellow ones, and the least with red ones.
SOLUTION:  Plant seeds or sets throughout the garden, rather than in one area.  Add sand or wood ashes to the top layer of the planting area.   Spray the soil with  an oil-and-soap mixture.   Dust with diatomaceous  earth.   Destroy (don’t compost) the affected  plant before the maggots mature into flies and lay a new  generation of eggs.
 
PROBLEM:  If plants are stunted and roots are pinkish or red,  shriveled, and rotted,  the  plant  is infected with pink root fungus.   It is encouraged  by heavy, wet soils. 
SOLUTION:  Plant tolerant and resistant varieties on well-drained soil. Incorporate organic matter to improve drainage.   Once the soil is infested, do not grow any bulb crops there.
 
PROBLEM:   Rust  infection  is manifested by long pustules  of  bright  orange spores on the leaves. 
SOLUTION:  The fleshy parts are usually safe for eating,  but the foliage must be destroyed.  Rotate crops to soil that is not as rich in nitrogen.
 
PROBLEM:  Black spots on leaves and between the sections of bulbs indicates  a smut infection.  Young plants may have twisted leaves.
SOLUTION:  Plant healthy, resistant varieties.
 
PROBLEM:  Bulbs that are soft and have thin skins,  thick necks, and leaf tips that turn brown are deficient in potassium.
SOLUTION:  Incorporate a high-potassium fertilizer.
 
PROBLEM:  Bulbs with thin skins are deficient in copper.
SOLUTION:  Incorporate manure with micronutrients.
 
PROBLEM:   Outer  layers of harvested bulbs that become  bleached,  soft,  and slippery demonstrate sunscald damage that occurs when bulbs are harvested  and set out for their initial curing in direct sun on very hot, dry days.
SOLUTION:  Shield bulbs from direct exposure to the sun during curing.
 
PROBLEM:   Mature  bulbs and sets develop sunken,  spongy areas  around  their necks when they are infected by neck rot fungus.  White varieties are extremely  susceptible.   The fungus is encouraged by insufficient curing and  fertilizer that is applied late in the season. 
SOLUTION:  Plant healthy sets of early-maturing,  thin-necked varieties.  Pungent  varieties  are less susceptible than mild-tasting ones.   Do  not  apply fertilizer late in the season.   Incorporate organic matter.  Cure bulbs thoroughly  at warm temperatures with good ventilation but out of the direct  sun.  Store them in a cool,  dry area with good air circulation.   Examine the bulbs frequently,  and remove those that are spoiled.   Store thick-necked varieties separately  from thin-necked ones,  and eat them soon after harvest,  as  they will not cure sufficiently for long storage.
 
Peas

PROBLEM:   Semi-circular  notches  on  the margins  of  leaves  are  tell-tale munchings of the pea leaf weevil.
SOLUTION:  Serious damage occurs only until the six-leaf stage.
 
PROBLEM:   Plants  that  are healthy but don't set blooms may be  affected  by excessive  nitrogen,  a previously heavy set,  or overmature pods  that  still remain on the plant.
SOLUTION:  Flush out excessive nitrogen with a one-time very heavy irrigation.  Keep pods harvested as they mature.
 
Radishes

PROBLEM:   Small roots that grow slowly and have a strong flavor have  matured in hot weather or have not been watered sufficiently. 
SOLUTION:  Water more deeply and frequently.  Plant for cool-season maturing.
 
PROBLEM:  Red varieties that grow slowly,  are pale, and have yellowish leaves are suffering from general nutrient deficiency.
SOLUTION:  Apply a balanced fertilizer.
 
PROBLEM:   Plants with healthy foliage that develop only tiny bulbs were  sown too closely.
SOLUTION:   Allow  more space when sowing,  or thin seedlings  to  two  inches apart.
 
PROBLEM:  Roots that split or are hollow or pithy are overmature.
SOLUTION:  Harvest as soon as roots are large enough.
 
PROBLEM:  Plants bolt (send up their seedstalk) when the days are too long and the nights are too short.
SOLUTION:  Grow in cooler weather of early spring or late fall.
 
Spinach
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PROBLEM:   Blight,  transmitted  by aphids,  causes plants to be  stunted  and leaves to yellow and curl.
SOLUTION:  Plant resistant varieties, control aphids, maintain weed-free growing areas.
 
PROBLEM:  Plants bolt (send up their seedstalk) when the days are too long and the nights are too short.
SOLUTION:  Grow in cooler weather of early spring or late fall.