Starting Lettuce and Other Seeds

I organize my seed packets first by season and then each individual container by type of seed, like carrots; then alphabetical by variety. I label 2 stakes for each variety, one for seeding now and the other for the next sowing.

Sowing in rows in the raised bed. Note sprinkler lines on either side.

Sowing seeds really thickly is fine for parsley and cilantro and mesclun-type greens since you'll harvest by handfuls with a knife cutting about an inch above the soil.

Beet seeds scattered about an inch apart on either side of the soaker hose.

Rolled newspaper filled with potting mix works.

The bottom of a large bin offers side protection from crawling pests and breezes.

Starting in my Speedling trays. I've punched a hole in each cell to receive the 3 seeds.

Placing 3 seeds into each depression.

Covering each depression with a bit of potting soil to keep the seeds in place each time I water.

Keep 1/4" of water in the bottom tray so potting soil can reabsorb it as needed.

6-packs and 4" containers fit into a plastic tray for easy watering. Keep 1/4" of water at the bottom so potting soil can reabsorb as necessary.

Place containers in light shade - with NO direct sun - until at least half of the seeds have sprouted.

Cheesecloth stretched and anchored over seedbeds provides some light shade from midday blasting sun as well as flying insects.

Nursery trays make excellent light shade so soil won't dry out before the seeds germinate.

Window screening offers light shade from sun.

Stella d'Oro still reblooming.

Amaranth keeps reseeding throughout the summer and fall.

Amarcrinum continues its one-bloom-each-day.

​     It’s time to get started with seeds for fall and winter crops. If you’ve never started seeds or are still mystified with the germination process, here’s what works for me.
     The many wonderful edible choices to start now include beets, bok choy, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chard, chervil, chives, collards, endive, garlic, kale, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, green onions, short-day bulb onions (like Grano, Granex, and Walla Walla), parsley, parsnips, peas, white potatoes, radishes, spinach, and turnips.
 
Starting Seeds In the Ground or In A Container?
Seeds that have taproots – like carrots, parsley, parsnips – should be started where they will mature so the root can grow straight and long.   The tap root is many times longer than what you observe as the above-ground portion, so if started or purchased in containers it will get curly and perhaps even stunt the growth of the plant.  So, save these for starting in the ground where they will mature.
 
Starting Seeds In The Ground

1. Choose a location that gets afternoon shade or at least filtered light so soil doesn’t dry out before seeds germinate.
2. Loosen soil to a 3” depth, knocking apart all clumps larger than a quarter of an inch.  If clayey, incorporate finely-grained compost so the soil mix drains well.
3. Smooth soil mix.
4. Scatter seeds sparsely either in rows or in the whole area.  More space between seeds is better, so they each have its own 1/4” of soil to develop without much competition for moisture and nutrition.
5. Scatter a very small amount of fine compost over the seeds to anchor them when you water.
6. Gently sprinkle water over the whole area, making sure to just barely moisten the soil and settle the seeds but not sweep them away.
7. After a couple of minutes, repeat the light sprinkling so the water sinks deeper into the soil mix.
8. Repeat again after another couple of minutes.
9. This sequential sprinkling should have moistened the full 3” depth and anchored seeds nicely in the soil mix so they can absorb moisture and be warmed by daily sun to germinate.
10. Every other day, sprinkle the area again at the end of the day so the water can remoisten the soil surface that dried during the day.
11. Seeds will germinate according to the genetics of their type and variety.  For example, lettuce and radishes should be up in a couple of days, but parsley and carrots may take a good three weeks!

 
Starting Seeds In Small Containers To Be Transplanted Later

1. Use 2” or 3" deep container with drainage holes - recycled plastic containers or Speedling® trays or 6-packs, etc.
2. Fill the container to its top with a quality good potting mix with small granules that are finely-textured, not bigger shreds of bark.  I like Dr. Earth or EB Stone fertilizer and LGM potting mix.
3. Press the mix lightly, or gently slam (not a contradiction in terms) the container on the table you’re working on so the mix granules settle a bit, releasing any air pockets.
4. Press the tip of your finger into the center of each container’s cell or an inch apart in a single larger container to form a depression about 1/4" deep.
5. Place 3 seeds into each depression. Fewer likely won't ultimately result in a seedling that's sufficiently-developed to transplant, and too many more will be too competitive between all of ones that initially germinate. You want to end up with one really nicely developed seedling, and trim off the others at the soil level, instead of trying to salvage every seedling by splitting the seedball with several seedlings.
6. Thinly scatter a bit of mix on top of the seeds - just enough to hold them in place when you water, but still have a bit of the depression remain so water can sink in right next to each seed.
7. Gently sprinkle with water several times to moisten the mix without dislodging the seeds.
8. Place individual containers or 6-packs into a group tray that will hold at least 1/4" water so the mix can pull up residual water as it needs it within a couple of hours after you water each time. 
9. Place the group tray in a brightly-lit area with NO direct sun.  Direct sun will dry out the mix too much before the seeds are able to germinate.
10. Sprinkle with water both in the morning and the evening for a week or so until about half of the seeds emerge.  Then water once a day or two depending on the weather just to keep the mix barely moist to foster good root development.
11. Once seedlings grow to about 1” tall and start leaning toward brighter sunlight, move the group tray to a location that gets direct sun in the morning.
12. Make sure that the bottom of the group container retains 1/4" water in it for a couple of hours after you water so the seedlings won't dry out during the day's direct sun.
13. When seedlings are 2" tall and have several “true” leaves, move the group tray near where you're going to transplant them so they acclimate to the weather pattern at their new home.  Keep an eye to the water at the bottom of the tray.
14. After a week's acclimatization, transplant seedlings where they’ll mature and water in well.
15. For 2 weeks after transplanting, water the seedlings every other day to keep them hydrated while they reestablish their root systems into the surrounding soil.